The Wairarapa

The Wairarapa

By Marco Stojanovik

The Wairarapa, known by Māori as the “Land of Glistening Waters”, is a region in New Zealand’s North Island filled with a spectacular landscape of rugged coastlines, wide valleys, lush forested mountains, and quaint colonial townships. Located about an hour’s drive or train ride from the capital Wellington, it is the perfect relaxing city escape known for its hot, languid summers, fine wine, and gourmet food.

Odyssey Traveller conducts a tour of the Wairarapa as part of our small group tour of New Zealand’s North Island for mature and senior travellers. Odyssey specialises in offering small group tours limited to 12 people, a mix of couples and solo travellers, partnering with local guides chosen for their local knowledge. Amongst activities in the Wairarapa we enjoy a visit to a Martinborough winery, an organised guided walking tour around the town, and a visit to the impressive collection at the Aratoi Wairarapa Museum of Art and History in Masterton. This article explores the history and attractions of the Wairarapa to assist your guided tour.

History of Settlement in the Wairarapa

The Wairarapa has a long history of Māori inhabitancy with Archaeological research showing that it was first settled on the coast at Palliser Bay in the late 1300s. Evidence suggests that about 300 people lived in six separate communities on the eastern side of the bay. However, by 1600 these settlements had left, most likely due to a rising population and falling food supplies caused by over-hunting, a cooling climate, and lower soil fertility.

Eventually the Rangitāne and Ngāti Kahungunu tribes moved into the region where they still live today. The two tribes lived peacefully amongst each other, fought off invading tribes, and often intermarried.

The first Europeans arrived in the Wairarapa in 1770 when the British explorer James Cook sailed along the coast and named the large bay on the south coast after his friend and patron Sir Hugh Palliser.

Seventy years later William Deans became the first European to enter Wairarapa walking along the coast from Wellington to Palliser Bay with a Māori guide. Impressed he spread word of the region’s potential for pastoralism. By 1844 Wellington entrepreneurs had begun moving to the region to farm land leased from the Māori with official purchases occurring from the 1850s.

Settlers from Sandinavia and other places came in the 1870s and cleared the dense forests of the Forty Mile Bush in Northern Wairarapa. They farmed the cleared land and built towns.

There was an absence of fighting during the New Zealand wars of the 19th century as relations between Māori and Pākehā communities remained strong. Even so, some Wairarapa Māori fought alongside Taranaki kinfolk, supporting Māori sovereignty, selling land to buy arms. By the end of the wars, most Māori had sold their land and couldn’t afford to buy it back. Unable to return to their traditional lands, many found work on settler farms.

Boutique Wineries

New Zealand is fast becoming a leader in the wine industry and the Wairarapa region boasts some of New Zealand’s most iconic and sought-after producers. Be sure to stop by for wine tastings at one of the many wineries the Wairarapa has to offer.

With a long history dating back to the settler period, the first vineyards were planted in 1883 but fell victim to the temperance movement in 1905. The Wairapara’s modern wine history dates back to the late 1970s, since when a range of styles have developed including exceptional Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc and Aromatics as well as stylish Chardonnay, Syrah and dessert wines.

Although the three main sub regions of Wairarapa – Masterton, Martinborough, Gladstone – share broadly similar climate and soils, they offer subtle differences in character for the discerning palate to explore.

Highlights: Masterton

Masterton is Wairarapa’s largest town, home to numerous attractions. Enjoy the Pukaha National Wildlife Centre and get acquainted with some of New Zealand’s rarest bird inhabitants amidst a pocket of ancient rainforest. Visit the stunning locations of Henley Lake and Queen Elizabeth Park. Soak in the dramatic scenery of the nearby locations of Tararua forest park and Castle Point Beach at Cape Palliser, complete with a picturesque lighthouse overlooking the sea. And of course, don’t forget the numerous award-winning vineyards open for wine tasting.

Masterton is also home to Aratoi Wairarapa Museum of Art and History – the Wairarapa’s largest museum and only public collection of art works – – and hosts major annual events including the International hot Air Balloon Fiesta and the Golden Shears shearing competition.

A trip to Masterton is not complete without a sampling of gourmet food and local wine at its excellent line up of cafes, restaurants and bars open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Highlights: Martinborough

Martinborough is a unique wine village packed with over 25 boutique vineyards, most within walking distance of the charming town square.

The village itself is packed with colonial charm, its square laid out in a Union Jack pattern criss-crossed with walking and cycle tracks to explore.

Martinborough is a popular weekend destination for neighbouring Wellingtonians, who enjoy the vineyard cafes, boutique stores, quality accommodation, olive groves and gourmet restaurants serving up seasonal menus.

Tour of the Wairarapa

Odyssey Traveller conducts a tour of the Wairarapa as part of our small group tour of New Zealand’s North Island for mature and senior travellers.

Led by a tour guide chosen for their local knowledge, our tour is for up to 12 people, typically mature and senior travellers joining as a couple or as solo traveller. Off the beaten track, our itinerary follows the east coast from Auckland to Wellington as we guide travellers through the history, Maori culture, and landscapes of the beautiful North Island of New Zealand.

For many visitors, the South Island gets all the attention, with the big tourist draws of Franz Josef Glacier, Milford Sound, Queenstown and historic Christchurch. But dig deeper and you’ll find that New Zealand’s North Island has as much to offer, including the beautiful Bay of Islands, Poor Knights Island, White Island, and Waiheke Island, the bird sanctuary of Tiritiri Matangi, the Art Deco of Hawke’s Bay, alpine Tongariro, and the glow worm caves in the Waitomo Caves complex.

Heading from Auckland we journey through the Coromandel Peninsula, then track south through the Bay of Plenty to Tairawhitu (The East Cape) rich in Maori culture and travel experiences. From Gisborne through Hawkes Bay and the Wairarapa, grape vines dominate the landscape. We will enjoy several wine tasting experiences, focusing on the different regions of grape that we travel through. The area is also home to several beautiful national parks. Finally, our North Island road trip arrives in Wellington, New Zealand’s capital city.

Odyssey Traveller has been serving global travellers since 1983 with educational tours of the history, culture, and architecture of our destinations. Odyssey specialises in offering small group tours, partnering with local guides to provide a relaxed and comfortable pace and atmosphere that sets us apart from larger tour groups. Tours are cost inclusive of all entrances, tipping and majority of meals. For more information, click here.

Articles about New Zealand published by Odyssey Traveller:

• Definitive Guide to Auckland
• Questions about New Zealand
• Wellington
• Rotorua
• Te Anau

For all the articles Odyssey Traveller has published for mature aged and senior travellers, click through on this link.

External articles to assist you on your visit to the Wairarapa and New Zealand’s North Island:

• Wairarapa | New Zealand Wine Directory
• 10 Damn Good Things to do in Wairarapa
• Wairarapa History
• 15 Best Beaches in New Zealand (on the North Island)
• Top 10 National Parks in New Zealand